Energy performance certificate (EPC)
Certificate contents
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23, Scarth Avenue
DONCASTER
DN4 8AW
31 January 2019
8511-6229-5270-8789-8026
- Total floor area
- 61 square metres
Rules on letting this property
Properties can be let if they have an energy rating from A to E.
You can read guidance for landlords on the regulations and exemptions.
Breakdown of property’s energy performance
Features in this property
Features get a rating from very good to very poor, based on how energy efficient they are. Ratings are not based on how well features work or their condition.
Assumed ratings are based on the property’s age and type. They are used for features the assessor could not inspect.
Feature | Description | Rating |
---|---|---|
Wall | Solid brick, as built, no insulation (assumed) | Very poor |
Roof | Pitched, 50 mm loft insulation | Poor |
Window | Fully double glazed | Average |
Main heating | Boiler and radiators, mains gas | Average |
Main heating control | Programmer and room thermostat | Poor |
Hot water | From main system, no cylinderstat | Poor |
Lighting | No low energy lighting | Very poor |
Floor | Suspended, no insulation (assumed) | N/A |
Secondary heating | Room heaters, electric | N/A |
Primary energy use
The primary energy use for this property per year is 407 kilowatt hours per square metre (kWh/m2).
About primary energy use
Primary energy use is a measure of the energy required for lighting, heating and hot water in a property. The calculation includes:
- the efficiency of the property’s heating system
- power station efficiency for electricity
- the energy used to produce the fuel and deliver it to the property
How this affects your energy bills
An average household would need to spend £758 per year on heating, hot water and lighting in this property. These costs usually make up the majority of your energy bills.
You could save £261 per year if you complete the suggested steps for improving this property’s energy rating.
This is based on average costs in 2009 when this EPC was created. People living at the property may use different amounts of energy for heating, hot water and lighting.
Impact on the environment
This property’s environmental impact rating is E. It has the potential to be C.
Properties get a rating from A (best) to G (worst) on how much carbon dioxide (CO2) they produce each year.
Carbon emissions
- An average household produces
- 6 tonnes of CO2
- This property produces
- 4.1 tonnes of CO2
- This property’s potential production
- 2.4 tonnes of CO2
You could improve this property’s CO2 emissions by making the suggested changes. This will help to protect the environment.
These ratings are based on assumptions about average occupancy and energy use. People living at the property may use different amounts of energy.
Changes you could make
Do I need to follow these steps in order?
Yes. Each step builds on the one before it so you can save the most energy.
For example, it’s more energy efficient to insulate your home before you buy a new boiler. A well insulated home will lose less heat so you do not have to run your boiler as often.
Step 1: Loft insulation
Loft insulation laid in the loft space or between roof rafters to a depth of at least 270?mm will significantly reduce heat loss through the roof; this will improve levels of comfort, reduce energy use and lower fuel bills. Insulation should not be placed below any cold water storage tank, any such tank should also be insulated on its sides and top, and there should be boarding on battens over the insulation to provide safe access between the loft hatch and the cold water tank. The insulation can be installed by professional contractors but also by a capable DIY enthusiast. Loose granules may be used instead of insulation quilt; this form of loft insulation can be blown into place and can be useful where access is difficult. The loft space must have adequate ventilation to prevent dampness; seek advice about this if unsure. Further information about loft insulation and details of local contractors can be obtained from the National Insulation Association (www.nationalinsulationassociation.org.uk).
- Typical installation cost
- Information unavailable
- Typical yearly saving
- £42
Step 2: Hot water cylinder insulation
Increasing the thickness of existing insulation around the hot water cylinder will help to maintain the water at the required temperature; this will reduce the amount of energy used and lower fuel bills. An additional cylinder jacket or other suitable insulation layer can be used. The insulation should be fitted over any thermostat clamped to the cylinder. Hot water pipes from the hot water cylinder should also be insulated, using pre-formed pipe insulation of up to 50?mm thickness, or to suit the space available, for as far as they can be accessed to reduce losses in summer. All these materials can be purchased from DIY stores and installed by a competent DIY enthusiast.
- Typical installation cost
- Information unavailable
- Typical yearly saving
- £23
Step 3: Low energy lighting
Replacement of traditional light bulbs with energy saving recommended ones will reduce lighting costs over the lifetime of the bulb, and they last up to 12 times longer than ordinary light bulbs. Also consider selecting low energy light fittings when redecorating; contact the Lighting Association for your nearest stockist of Domestic Energy Efficient Lighting Scheme fittings.
- Typical installation cost
- Information unavailable
- Typical yearly saving
- £21
Step 4: Cylinder thermostat
A hot water cylinder thermostat enables the boiler to switch off when the water in the cylinder reaches the required temperature; this minimises the amount of energy that is used and lowers fuel bills. The thermostat is a temperature sensor that sends a signal to the boiler when the required temperature is reached. To be fully effective it needs to be sited in the correct position and hard wired in place, so it should be installed by a competent plumber or heating engineer.
- Typical installation cost
- Information unavailable
- Typical yearly saving
- £54
Step 5: Heating controls (thermostatic radiator valves)
Thermostatic radiator valves allow the temperature of each room to be controlled to suit individual needs, adding to comfort and reducing heating bills provided internal doors are kept closed. For example, they can be set to be warmer in the living room and bathroom than in the bedrooms. Ask a competent heating engineer to install thermostatic radiator valves. Thermostatic radiator valves should be fitted to every radiator except the radiator in the same room as the room thermostat. Remember the room thermostat is needed as well as the thermostatic radiator valves, to enable the boiler to switch off when no heat is required.
- Typical installation cost
- Information unavailable
- Typical yearly saving
- £19
Step 6: Band A condensing boiler
A condensing boiler is capable of much higher efficiencies than other types of boiler, meaning it will burn less fuel to heat this property. This improvement is most appropriate when the existing central heating boiler needs repair or replacement, but there may be exceptional circumstances making this impractical. Condensing boilers need a drain for the condensate which limits their location; remember this when considering remodelling the room containing the existing boiler even if the latter is to be retained for the time being (for example a kitchen makeover). Building Regulations apply to this work, so your local authority building control department should be informed, unless the installer is registered with a competent persons scheme?, and can therefore self-certify the work for Building Regulation compliance. Ask a qualified heating engineer to explain the options.
- Typical installation cost
- Information unavailable
- Typical yearly saving
- £103
Step 7: Solar water heating
A solar water heating panel, usually fixed to the roof, uses the sun to pre-heat the hot water supply. This will significantly reduce the demand on the heating system to provide hot water and hence save fuel and money. The Solar Trade Association has up-to-date information on local installers and any grant that may be available.
- Typical installation cost
- Information unavailable
- Typical yearly saving
- £20
Step 8: Internal or external wall insulation
Solid wall insulation involves adding a layer of insulation to either the inside or the outside surface of the external walls, which reduces heat loss and lowers fuel bills. As it is more expensive than cavity wall insulation it is only recommended for walls without a cavity, or where for technical reasons a cavity cannot be filled. Internal insulation, known as dry-lining, is where a layer of insulation is fixed to the inside surface of external walls; this type of insulation is best applied when rooms require redecorating and can be installed by a competent DIY enthusiast. External solid wall insulation is the application of an insulant and a weather-protective finish to the outside of the wall. This may improve the look of the home, particularly where existing brickwork or rendering is poor, and will provide long-lasting weather protection. Further information can be obtained from the National Insulation Association (www.nationalinsulationassociation.org.uk). It should be noted that planning permission might be required.
- Typical installation cost
- Information unavailable
- Typical yearly saving
- £71
Step 9: Solar photovoltaic (PV) panels
A solar PV system is one which converts light directly into electricity via panels placed on the roof with no waste and no emissions. This electricity is used throughout the home in the same way as the electricity purchased from an energy supplier. The British Photovoltaic Association has up-to-date information on local installers who are qualified electricians and on any grant that may be available. Planning restrictions may apply in certain neighbourhoods and you should check this with the local authority. Building Regulations apply to this work, so your local authority building control department should be informed, unless the installer is appropriately qualified and registered as such with a competent persons scheme?, and can therefore self-certify the work for Building Regulation compliance.
- Typical installation cost
- Information unavailable
- Typical yearly saving
- £159
Help paying for energy improvements
You might be able to get a grant from the Boiler Upgrade Scheme. This will help you buy a more efficient, low carbon heating system for this property.
More ways to save energy
Who to contact about this certificate
Contacting the assessor
If you’re unhappy about your property’s energy assessment or certificate, you can complain to the assessor who created it.
- Assessor’s name
- Byron Snaith
- Telephone
- 08700 850490
Contacting the accreditation scheme
If you’re still unhappy after contacting the assessor, you should contact the assessor’s accreditation scheme.
- Accreditation scheme
- Elmhurst Energy Systems Ltd
- Assessor’s ID
- EES/005488
- Telephone
- 01455 883 250
About this assessment
- Assessor’s declaration
- No assessor’s declaration provided
- Date of assessment
- 21 January 2009
- Date of certificate
- 1 February 2009
- Type of assessment
-
Show information about the RdSAP
RdSAP (Reduced data Standard Assessment Procedure) is a method used to assess and compare the energy and environmental performance of properties in the UK. It uses a site visit and survey of the property to calculate energy performance.
This type of assessment can be carried out on properties built before 1 April 2008 in England and Wales, and 30 September 2008 in Northern Ireland. It can also be used for newer properties, as long as they have a previous SAP assessment, which uses detailed information about the property’s construction to calculate energy performance.
Other certificates for this property
If you are aware of previous certificates for this property and they are not listed here, please contact us at dluhc.digital-services@levellingup.gov.uk or call our helpdesk on 020 3829 0748 (Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm).
- Certificate number
- 8311-6229-5270-8739-8976
- Valid until
- 30 January 2029